Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts

Friday, December 15, 2023

Paris 1: Art, Love and my Bohemian Life

Portrait of Francesco Fontana (detail) by Davy Lim, Paris 1982
Myth of broken artists and the struggle to make a dream come true ~
Paris Memoir Part Two | Part Three

As you may have heard from some interviews with Eric Rhoads, I started my career in Paris in the eighties. But never shared details that I believe might interest the fans of artists' life. I was twenty years old and earned my bread as a tourists' portrait artist. The most iconic place I worked was Montmartre. This early experience gave me an artistic and ethical imprint for life, and is still an inspiration 40 plus years later. Maybe some of these memories can inspire you too.

Van Gogh and his time in Montmartre

Van Gogh's Le Moulin de la Gallette.
Van Gogh's Le Moulin de la Gallette.
The Basilica of Sacre Coeur at the top of Montmartre hill can be seen from many corners of Paris. Behind the large white church lies the famous Place du Tertre, jam packed with artists' stand and cafe terrace. 

Back in the day it was already a tourist attraction, with many souvenir shops. But it was still the place where Gauguin, Pissarro, Toulouse-Lautrec used to be and where Van Gogh lived for a while with his brother Theo in Rue Lepic and painted the nearby windmill: Le Moulin de la Gallette.

The fight to grab a spot

Permitted artist a their official spot in Montmartre, Paris
Permitted artist a their official spot in Montmartre, Paris

The space was limited. In addition to the official permits that the City had recently established, the square was kinda bossed by a clan of Slavs. I guess that was the legacy of the first come first sat up times. No longer than ten years earlier, the artists daily battle to grab a spot began at 5 in the morning, still dark. (1972, The Underdogs of Montamartre, video).The many unauthorized walking artists at the entry of the square, are a tradition too. 

New romance every day 

Therefore the street portraitists who continued to arrive from abroad had occupied the large Beaubourg plateau, in front of the Centre Pompidou. In the evening we moved to the Latin Quarter, especially on the legendary Boulevard Saint Germain. Which I remember as romantic stroll place, where new romance started every other night!

I was one of these kids attracted by a bohemian dream, who had left Sicily and landed in France with no money nor a word of French.

When the fakirs attacked us

On the Plateau du Beaubourg it was tough, there were about 40 painters and as many street artists including fire eaters, fakirs, acrobats. One day a group of them attacked us, throwing our stools and easels into the air. To make room for their special event. I proposed myself as a negotiator between calling the police and go for revenge. We ended up shaking hands and share a drink with the fakirs!

Walking portraitist at the entry of Place du Tertre, Montmartre
Walking portraitist at the entry of Place du Tertre, Montmartre

Nevertheless I had the chance to be head butted in another fight and had my front teeth almost knocked out. I had tried to defend a girl who had her necklace snatched by an Arab gangster, - as she approached for a portrait. My mouth bleeding, I was taken to a dentist who saved my smile!

Part 2 next week. Stay tuned for Picasso around the corner, Love and the great old masters, Lifetime friendships and more stories!

Happy Art Life! -- Francesco
PS. What story would you like to read in my MuseLetter? Comment below or reply to the email
Paris Memoir Part Two | Part Three

Wednesday, November 15, 2023

Paris 3: The Struggle of The Street Artists

Portrait of Francesco Fontana (detail) by Davy Lim, Paris 1982Is becoming an artist worth a lifetime of sacrifice? ~
Paris Memoir Part One | Part Two

It's dark but my memory is clear. I see myself in the evening in the Latin Quarter, together with Davy Lim. Me and him with our drawing boards and camping seats,  scoping boulevard Saint Michel in search of a spot to work overtime. Just to raise some extra francs with a couple of portraits under a street lamp, perhaps of some tipsy tourists.

Davy Lim at his spot in Place du Tertre, Montmartre
Davy Lim today at his spot in Place du Tertre, Montmartre

Oh yes, the street lamps evoke other jobs, indeed we too were hookers after all!

Davy Lim in the 80's
Davy Lim back in the 80's

Davy is a British citizen of Malaysian origin, and I immediately had great admiration for him. He's a terrific draftman! While he draws I try to learn from him, to steal his craft. I look at him like you look at a mentor, even though he is only two or three years older than me and never tried to teach me anything.

My escape from drugs and terrorism

I am very atypical for a southern Italian. We are in the 80s. At such a young age I lead a totally unique life! At twenty years old, my peers go to college, have middle class ambitions or in any case do not leave the comfort of mamma cooking pasta for them. Those who reject this prospect end up involved in the political violence or devastated by heroin and then by AIDS. Hundreds of them. Ultimately, my trip to Paris was an escape from both of these deadly destinies.

Davy Lim's artist studio view in the South of France
Davy Lim's artist studio view in the South of France

Nevertheless it seems to me that I am far too respectable compared to Davy. He smokes and drinks the English way, that is, on an empty stomach. At most he grabs some junk food. I'm too Italian: picky about eating, matching shirts with trousers and drinking like an altar boy!

  • I was a chain smoker and drank a fast beer after almost every portrait. At the St Michel pitch, near the old Gilbert Jeune bookshop, there was a bar right opposite the lamp post I claimed for the night shift. Yeah, all I ate was junk food. I've got emphysema now because of the cigarettes, and I've had to give up the booze..

Davy lived outside Paris with his girlfriend, a French sculptor. One day we go to Montreuil, I think he hosted me for a couple of nights, I don't know why. But above all he paints a portrait of me in acrylic on green pastel Canson paper, like the one we draw charcoal portraits on. It's the dearest souvenir I have from that era! I've kept it in a drawer all these years like a relic, but now is time to frame it and hang it on the best wall of the studio!

Buying a house with portraits money

Later, once the story with the sculptress is over, he will tell me that he bought a house. He takes me to a small apartment, well not exactly an apartment!

  • My room was 12 sqm. Yep, there was a mezzanine and just enough space for a studio easel and painting equipment. There were no cooking facilities. Turkish toilette on the landing. There my neighbour (absolutely horrible character) used to leave me disgusting presents up and down the walls. It cost me 65,000 francs (some $36,000 of today) No regrets at all!

In that period Davy took on some commissions for sacred paintings. I think it was his plan B for the winter. I admire this about him too. That ability to build brick by brick, with sacrifice but with the clear priority of financial security. Quite the opposite of me!

Davy Lim's artist studio in the South of France

Four decades later

We met again a few years ago. I discovered that Davy is a YouTube star and to my surprise, that after forty years he is still working in Montmartre! Despite his precarious health, he insists on riding his scooter three times a week to the same spot that was assigned him many years ago.

  • I got my official authorization in 1994, and my first "pitch" was no. 101. I am still sitting on the same spot. Though it's now called no. 84.

We had lunch and he congratulates me for having the guts to get off the street and develop my art. “I think you had a natural talent and so much potential” - says Davy. I know that his amazing talent could be expressed in different ways but he preferred to win his bread on the field. The road allowed him to send the son he adopted with his partner Agnes to an International school. Much respect!

  • As decrepitude goes up, it’s more and more difficult to work on the street now, especially in winter. But I feel totally blessed to have spent my whole life being free and doing something so enjoyable! I hope to spend more time to serious painting in the small atelier we have in the South of France. But it's still nice to have access to an easy and fun source of income in a legendary location like Montmartre!

If you happen to be in Paris, you know who to ask for a portrait! You can also visit Davy Lim online https://www.davylim.com/ ~ https://www.youtube.com/c/DavyLimvideos/videos


Happy Art Life! -- Francesco


PS. I realize my Paris story could go on forever. I should  consider writing a book. Please let me know if you want to read more about it. 

The portrait of Francesco Fontana by Davy Lim, Paris 1982
Acrylic portrait of Francesco Fontana by Davy Lim, Paris 1982
Through Ian, Jeanne Marie and Davy I told the stories of some different ways to experience the journey of painting starting from my youth. I understand that these stories of mine can demystify the legend of bohemian Paris and demolish the belief that the life of the artist is always fun and privilege.

The truth is that choosing from a young age to make a living from your art almost always costs enormous sacrifices and sometimes terrible misadventures. Is it worth it? Yes, definitely! The reward is a strong sense of identity, the realization of who you truly feel you are. Belonging to some kind of brotherhood, even if your real friends in the business are two or three.

This generates a form of happiness that is not visible to others but very profound. People think success is fame and wealth, but before that there is the pride of having carved out a place in the world based on your talent and tenacity. The fulfillment of being able to give people emotions through your art, which can sometimes last a lifetime.

Paris Memoir Part One | Part Two

Thursday, November 26, 2020

What Artists and Criminals Have in Common

My talk with Eric Rhoads on launching festivals, creating style and facing mafia (1:20 min read) --

Many of us artists and most galleries and event promoters, raise questions about the unique voice of an artist. Being recognizable it is considered key to visibility and success.  And I agree it is, as long as it's not just a branding operation. In a recent podcast with #1 publisher, tireless mentor and artist himself Eric Rhoads -- I talked my idea on how to achieve that uniqueness. 

Podcast Francesco Fontana with Eric RhoadsWith time I discovered that originality it's not only based on a concept or just your personality, but is a modus operandi. Yes like serial killers, great criminals and great artists, always leave a signature! A modus operandi is a set of tools and actions to do things - that make a difference as they exclude other ways. In this conversation I reveal some of my personal rules, such as my 7/5/3 design mode.Eric is a curious kind, never short of questions! So we talked over many topics, from the difference between Europe and USA in organizing plein air events to the need for artists to engage in social issues. And for those who love stories, we recalled lot of anecdotes from my early career adventures in bohemian Paris and the Montmartre 'portrait artists mafia'!

Do not miss listening to this unusual podcast conversation! I truly believe you will find insights for your art and business! 

Be safe and happy! - Francesco

PS.  Please, your feedback is so very welcome publicly in my blog or just by replying to this email. 

Sunday, November 13, 2016

LOVE YOU PARIS!

Amnesia to protect heart from breaking

A year ago today I was given an interview to publisher Eric Rhoads for my DVD in Texas. A large part of the conversation was about my beginnings as an artist in the streets of Paris over 30 years earlier. The incredible thing is I did not remember anything about the events I had just heard about on my drive to the recording studio: the attacks at the Bataclan and at the Petit Cambodge (a restaurant I had dinner with family not long before).. I could remember details of my experience as a young artist, but my mind was completely blank about the many losses I had just know about. The day after I felt so ashamed for not mentioning that in the interview. And that I was short with my daughter on skype as she called me from overseas to remember that dinner, while I was filming my demo. Now I know amnesia is one of those mysterious ways we have to protect our heart from breaking apart..

Monday, January 27, 2014

Monet Paris & Giverny Painting Holiday

Living The Spirit of Impressionism

Giverny is a tiny village about 75 km north of Paris, in Lower Normandy. Claude Monet, the father of Impressionism, lived in Giverny the last 30 years of his life.



Me painting in the Monet's garden, July 2013
There he built his mansion and designed in person a luscious flower garden and the lily pond. Later the lilies became the subject of a series of large paintings. These paintings – we can now admire at Musee de l'Orangerie in Paris -- become his most famous masterpieces, after Impression du Soleil Levant, which gave birth to the Impressionism and constitutes our legacy as painters.

Next July I'll have again the privilege to paint right along the lily pond in the colourful garden of my muse Monet. Believe me when I say you can feel his spirit and something enormously greater in the air as you paint in the quite late afternoon of Giverny. The sky becomes peach rose thru the trees and you can only hear the frogs splashing in the pond. We feel as witnesses and humble carriers of  his Art. We become aware and grateful for it seems he made all this to share his inspiration with us!


12 -- 19 July, 2014


The Japanese Bridge --
Watercolor 33 x 46 cm (c) Francesco Fontana
I’ll offer this 4 day workshop in Giverny – after a brief tour in Paris. Dry and water media are preferred -- but oil is welcome if you have a basic gear and painting know how outdoor. I pre-booked only 8 rooms at the hotel we stayed last year, just around the corner of Monet’s house. Are you going to miss this chance?

Be part of this memorable experience! Sign up now!.